San Juan & Rincon, Puerto Rico

MEM-SJU

Puerto Rico

Dec 23, 2009 - Jan 2, 2010

• Brad, Carrie, and Adam flew into San Juan a couple days before Nick and Cindy. During that time, they stayed drunk at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel.
• Nick and Cindy arrived on the 24th of December and took a cab to the hotel, where they immediately went to the pool and hung out with everyone else, and had a few cocktails. That evening, while Brad and Adam were passed out, Nick, Carrie and Cindy went to the hotel casino for a couple drinks and games. Nick won about $300 on a slot machine and after a few more drinks, everyone called it a night and went back up to the room. Oddly, the rooms at the W-A property trended more toward Motel 8 than luxury (but no expense was spared in the lobby to give that appearance). The room accommodated 4 people, but we had stolen a cot from the housekeeping closet (they wouldn't give us one, saying it was a fire hazard). The next morning, we wheeled it out to the hallway, not having had to escape any fires during the night.
  
• We took a cab to an airport rental car company, where we picked up the SUV (after a 30 minute wait) to drive to Rincon, a small city on the west coast of the island. The drive was pretty easy - just a couple highways. On the way there, we stopped for lunch at a diner in Camuy. From there, Rincon was just about another hour or so. Once we arrived in Rincon, we had some issues actually finding the house that we had rented for the week. After talking to the house owners, we finally made our way to the house - situated across from Steps Beach, but up a winding, very steep hill. That day we just checked out the house, the town and the beaches near the house. The Econo Supermercado was where we got most of our supplies/foodstuffs.
• We ended up most days at Tres Palmas Beach, although we did have a good time watching most of our stuff nearly get wiped away by a massive wave at the Dome, near the lighthouse.
  
• Over the next couple days, we tried out some bars and restaurants in the town. One, just off the beach, had good food, but the only problem there was the occasional power outage, which everyone took in stride. Tamboo, a bar on the beach (which we found thanks to Adams's trusty iPhone GPS) was full of drinking, dancing 15 year olds.
• Adam's favorite local dish was mofongo, which he ate at every meal. It's a mashed plantain dish, flavored and seasoned differently, depending on who makes it. At one place called The Spot, there were several pinball machines and a great outdoor seating area. One of the waitresses had a child there with her one night while we were hanging out. It was about 10-11 PM, and we were drinking, so the kid took advantage of us and schooled everyone on the pinball machines. Should have been in bed. I believe she was told this each time she won. There was also a place called Rock Bottom, and Casa Verde, where we all had drinks for Nick's birthday.
• We had read in a couple guide books about bioluminescent microorganisms in some of the waters on the south coast of the island. We decided to go to a town called La Parguera, in  Puerto Quijano and check it out on kayaks. We had called ahead and gotten directions, and once we made it to the boat captain's dock, he set us up with a couple kayaks. First he took Nick and Adam to the bay on his boat to show us how to navigate the waters and where to find Bahia Parguera. Once we were ready to take off on the kayaks, the nice captain made the observation that Cindy may not make it, because she was "too fancy." She was wearing thunder heels, hair was did, and makeup on. She did a great job though, rowing occasionally on the kayak she shared with Adam and Carrie. Once we were in the bay (which took about an hour or so to get to), we hung out on the kayaks for a while, staring into the water, watching the tiny bacteria light up and go black again. The trip back was uneventful, and once we got into the car on the way back, we concentrated hard on making sure that we found a place to eat. We grabbed dinner at an Italian place in Rincon and then went back to the house.
• The next day we headed out for a drive through the interior of the island. It was really cool once we got onto the scenic road out of the cities (which was a bit hard to find and stay on). We climbed through mountains, into cloud forests, into the jungle. Our focus (besides the scenery) was finding coffee plantation(s) to tour. Sadly, we found none that were open to the public, and in fact, the locals at some of the tiny little towns in the jungle had no idea what we were talking about when asking them about coffee plantation tours. At one point, we stopped in a town high in the mountains for lunch, where we ate plates of delicious fried chicken and french fries.
• On New Year's Eve, we booked a sunset catamaran cruise. Besides the inclusion of all the free booze and snacks one could want, there were snorkel funnels full of beer (which only Adam and Nick took part in) and lots of music. The cruise was a couple hours, and we got to the point (Centro) where the Caribbean meets the Atlantic Ocean. It was a pretty sight - traveling behind the massive waves as they broke, speeding toward the shore. Once well-lubricated (which could have had to do with the drink in hand, the wind, and a hat - causing the drink to be on the face and shirt), there was a new man for Cindy. The captain, Brian, found himself madly in lust with her and after Brad informed him that we would be at the Spot for the remainder of the evening, he and his first mate ("which is Spanish for bartender") just happened to be there as well. Cindy got to see his shark SUV...
• New Year's Day, we planned to go to Rio Camuy Caves Park, where tourists could check out the caverns in the jungle. On the drive there, we stopped and got pastries at a local street side shop, then continued on the way - once there, we found that the park was closed due to the holiday. We decided to continue north to the Arecibo Observatory, which is the largest radio telescope in the world. It's owned by the NSF and operated by Cornell University. From the NAIC website: The National Astronomy and Ionosphere Center enables research in the areas of astronomy, planetary studies, and space and atmospheric sciences by providing unique capabilities and state-of-the-art instrumentation for data collection and analysis, together with logistical support to users. From there we went back to Rincon, where we stopped along the way to eat at a Taco Maker.
• The next day was the end of the vacation, so we packed up and headed back to San Juan, where we had flights...Brad had a flight first, so he was dropped off then Carrie, Nick, Adam, and Cindy toured a bit of Old San Juan before going back to the airport.

Asheville, North Carolina

MEM-AVL
Asheville
September 4 - 7, 2009

• Brad and Nick had a 6 AM flight from Memphis through Atlanta, where we met up with Carrie and Adam, and then on to Asheville. We arrived in Asheville around 10:30 and picked up the rental car (Chevy HHR).
• We drove to the cabin we had rented for Labor Day weekend in Weaverville, just north of Asheville. Once we arrived, Carrie was left there to finish up some work and Brad, Nick and Adam went to the Ingles to get food and other stuff for the weekend.
• The cabin (click for link or to book) was really nice - it was on the highway, but the rear of the house was facing a large open field and the French Broad River. It was equipped with solar LED lighting outside. Lots of windows in the cabin. The very nice owners (who lived in the house right next to cabin) provided floating tubes, frisbee, volleyball/badminton net and other fun stuff to do.
• We explored the property a bit - an island, accessible via foot bridge was behind the house on the river. The owners also had a small cabin located on the island.
• In the afternoon and into the evening, we hung out on the river, reading and taking in some wine/beers. We didn't eat dinner, just snacked.
• Hot tuuuhhh time! Adam retired around 10, but Nick Brad and Carrie stayed up and had a few more drinks...went to bed around 2 AM.
• The next day, Brad and Nick got up around 11; Carrie and Adam had already been up. Adam had gone to Ingles for donuts.
• Brad cooked omelets for breakfast and then everyone hung out on the river for a while before deciding to go for a hike. We found a trailhead (actually a bike trail) about 5 miles south of the cabin on Hwy 251. There were actually two different trails, but the map didn't note distances. We just chose one and ended up hiking through the woods for about 45 minutes (according to Adam's GPS, about 1.84 miles). Turned around and headed back...none of us had brought water along, for some reason. Total hike was about 4 miles, at 1.5 hours.
• Nick's friend Tony, who lives in Sylva, NC came to the cabin to hang out. Nick and Tony took a float trip down the river a mile or so while Brad and Carrie built a dam in the river. Everyone ended up hanging out on the river for a while, then cooking chicken for dinner.
• The next day Tony and Nick met up with Jill, Tony's wife, for breakfast in Asheville. After returning, Tony left and the group went for another hike, this one much more scenic. We walked along a river for a while, and ended up hiking for about 3-4 miles total. Weather was really nice - sunny and not too hot. After returning to the house, Brad, Nick and Adam played some badminton and then we had dinner and some beers before heading to bed.
• On Labor Day, before going to the airport, we had enough time to head up the Blue Ridge Parkway for a while and got some nice pictures of the scenery. After that it was off to the airport and back to Memphis.
  

2009 - Friday, July 24 (Alaska)

MEM-FAI
Alaska
July 17 - July 25

• In the morning, we went to a dog sled demonstration. It was pretty interesting, despite the absence of snow...the sleds were modified with small wheels so that the dogs could pull them. We departed Denali N.P. and headed north/east to Fairbanks, where we were flying from to Memphis the following day. Once in Fairbanks, we checked into the Hampton Inn off the interstate (well, highway).
• A nice lady on the plane from Memphis to Fairbanks had told Nick about the University of Alaska Museum. She recommended going if we had time. So, since we had time today, we opted to check it out. The newest addition to the museum had quite the assortment of exhibits, ranging from Native Alaskan art to a room called "The Place Where You Go To Listen," which was essentially a light and sound show tuned to the seismic activity of the Earth in real time. The older part of the museum was really just a mess, we thought. It appeared that everything that was in the museum before the addition had been shoved into one gallery and then signs and placards were placed on the stuff to try to teach you things. Not to mention the extreme oldness of the busload of people that were there. They enjoyed walking in front of us and stopping to look at an exhibit...right in front of us. Multiple times. We couldn't handle it anymore, so we went outside for a photo op.
• After leaving the museum, we went downtown to find out what there was to do. The answer is 'not much.' We walked around for a while and finally went into a bar called Mecca. The locals there stared us down while we ordered and drank a beer. They were all buying pull tabs (a version of the lottery) and swearing/yelling loudly. We had only one beer - that was plenty of time spent there.
• After that we decided to go back to the Pump House bar/restaurant that we had gone to the first day of the trip. We had several beers and played pool for a while before heading back to the hotel.
  
• After getting back to the hotel, we ate and then watched television. The next morning we packed everything up, headed to the airport and back to the god-awful heat of the Memphis summer.
  

2009 - Thursday, July 23 (Alaska)

MEM-FAI
Alaska
July 17 - July 25

• We took the 9:30 AM green bus to Eielson stop 66 miles in. During the trip, we saw 3 grizzlies and about 5 cubs, lots and lots of caribou and a couple Dall Sheep. No moose...
• Our driver was Elton Parks - he was quite a storyteller. He had been driving the summer buses for many years, and was pretty knowledgeable on the animals, plants, and geologic formations in the park. At any time, if a passenger wanted to stop to take pictures, or view wildlife, you just yelled "STOP" and he would stop the bus and everyone would take pictures or ask questions about whatever it was that we were seeing.
• Overall, the drive to the Eielson Visitor Center was beautiful - the scenery alone was pretty amazing. We were at the Visitor Center for about an hour, then got on the bus back to the park entrance. While boarding the bus, we became aware that some rednecks in the back of the bus had brought a cooler (which was ok) but it was full of beer and they were pretty inebriated. A ranger (gun included) was brought on to escort the gentlemen off the bus. Apparently alcohol and drunkenness is discouraged on national park-sanctioned vehicles. Go figure.
• Mt McKinley (Denali) is the tallest mountain in North America at 20,000 feet. It is generally not visible due to weather - clouds, rain, etc. However there are days where even just a few minutes of visibility is possible. This is still pretty rare though. We were on the bus, returning to the park entrance, and suddenly a passenger yelled "STOP" meaning there was something to look at! Sure enough, we turn around toward the way we were coming from (the visitor center, in the direction of Denali) and the north face of the mountain had suddenly come into view! We got some pictures (we were about 60 miles from the mountain) and then headed off again.
• Back at the campsite, we cooked dinner (potatoes and beans).
• It was very cold and windy. We didn't pack enough warm clothing!
• BOD: leftover Alaskan
• Mileage: 0 (132 on the bus)

2009 - Wednesday, July 22 (Alaska)

MEM-FAI
Alaska
July 17 - July 25

• We left Anchorage at 10 AM via Highway 1. Drove through Wasilla (home of you know who), and headed toward Denali National Park via George Parks Highway.
• We arrived at the park around 2 PM. We found a campsite in the park for $28/nt, paid our entrance fee of $10 per person. Then we ate lunch ($25) at the cafeteria/restaurant at the visitor's center.
• At the visitor center we also watched a short film on the history of the park, the mountain after which it is named, and this area of Alaska.
• In Denali, cars are not permitted to drive through the park. Auto access is limited to about 15 miles in. This is a park the size of the state of Massachusetts, covering about 6 million acres. In order to see the interior of the park, visitors must purchase a bus pass. The park operates buses that take visitors in to different points along the 92 mile park road. We decided to go to the Eielson stop, about 66 miles in. We purchased tickets for the ride, at $32 per person. The trip to Eielson takes 8 hours, round trip (the innermost point in the park, Kantishna, takes 13 hours for the 92 mile [184 RT] trip).
• Mileage: 1190
• Gas: $25
• Beer of the Day: Alaskan White, Moose Drool

2009 - Tuesday, July 21 (Alaska)

MEM-FAI
Alaska
July 17 - July 25

• We left Skilak Lake around 10 AM via Seward Highway and grabbed breakfast at Sunrise Cafe in Cooper Landing.
• Drove Highway 1 along Turnagain Arm to Anchorage. We got to Anchorage around 2:30 and checked into the Hilton downtown.
• Walked around downtown to check out the sights. We decided to rent a couple bikes from Downtown Bicycle Rental and go for a ride. We chose the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail, which goes from downtown, through a park, and around the airport and then back. We rode about 10 miles, during which a rogue biker stopped along the trail and Nick crashed into him, resulting in a banged up knee and leg. Everyone survived though, and we made it back downtown where we stopped at a gift shop to buy some stuff for Amanda, who was watching the doggies back in Memphis.
• Had dinner at Orso then headed back to the hotel and watched a movie (Adventureland).
• Mileage: 940

2009 - Monday, July 20 (Alaska)

MEM-FAI
Alaska
July 17 - July 25

• Departed Primrose at 10 AM and on the way to Skilak Lake, we stopped in Moose Pass, AK so that Nick could mail his mom a package of stuff.
• We took the Sterling Highway to Skilak Lake and set up camp at Upper Skilak Lake campground. Found an excellent site (C6, $5), pitched the tent, then headed to Kenai.
• In Kenai, we found an old Russian Orthodox Church that overlooked the Cook Inlet. The priest tried his best to sell us trinkets and other junk that the church was selling, but we resisted him

In Soviet Russia, junk sells YOU

• Walked next door to a cafe (Veronica's Coffee) and had the best food we've eaten so far on the trip. There were a lot of fishermen salmon fishing on the shoreline outside the area where the church and cafe were located.

• Stopped at the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge (.pdf) visitor center in Soldotna and ended up reading a lot of material about the wildlife and checking out all the interpretive exhibits.
• Saw TWO black bears! Separate sightings, but both times they ran across the dirt road as we were driving. No time to get the camera out and snap a quick photo.
• That afternoon at the campground we went for a hike (Vista Trail). The trailhead was in the campground, about 4 miles round trip with an elevation gain of about 800 feet. Very steep, but there were some amazing views of the lake at every turn. ...M C A
  
• At the very beginning of the hike, we came across bear scat, so throughout the walk, we were pretty vigilant about keeping an eye out and making noise to ward off a nasty bear mauling.

Really? You couldn't have walked 2 feet off the trail to do that?

• After that the weather was moderately shitty - rain on and off all day and pretty windy. We ended up cooking over the fire (first cooked meal of the trip - a record!).

Nick, exploring bear proof storage

• An island several hundred yards off the lake appeared to be home to hundreds of water birds that screeched and squawked all night. Very odd.
• Mileage: 817 Gas $31
• BOD - Blueberry Lager

2009 - Sunday, July 19 (Alaska)

MEM-FAI
Alaska
July 17 - July 25

• Packed and left Lake Louise at 10 AM. Took Glenn Highway (AK 1) to Anchorage. Had Mexican for lunch. Left Anchorage via AK 1 and 9 (Seward Hwy), which was an amazing, scenic drive. The highway runs down the coast of Turnagain Arm, part of the Cook Inlet around the Kenai Peninsula. Going south, Chugach State Forest is to the left. The drive was a slow one - drizzling rain and RVs poking along held up traffic. The good thing was, it was a Sunday, so most of the traffic was coming back north toward Anchorage. Plus we didn't have anywhere to go and were in no hurry to get there.
• We had read in the guide book about a private area of the forest where camping was allowed, so we started looking for it. There weren't any clear markings (even road signs), so it was a bit difficult to find. Eventually we drove into the forest far enough (after not driving far enough initially and turning around) and spotted a great site to throw down camp.
• It was still pretty misty and cloudy, so we decided to drive to Exit Glacier, located outside of Seward in Kenai Fjords National Park (about 15 miles away). It's hard to describe, but 'massive' sums it up in one word. It was a nice hike to the base of the glacier - just about 1/2 mile or so. Once at the base, we walked around (no touching; only looking).
• After exploring the glacier, we drove into Seward and did some junk shopping, then had pizza and a couple beers at a local eatery. The town of Seward is a port of call for cruise lines, so everything in the stores tended to be overpriced, but it was a nice town.
• Still drizzling/raining so we called it a night. Only had one beer today (this is very rare)...BOD was Alaskan Coffee Porter and IPA. Headed back to camp to plan the next day's travel.
• Mileage 670. Gas $30.